I have been making men's shirts since 1976, you would think I am an expert by now, I know I have made over 200. I do a good job, but I could do better. Recently I got a book on making shirts, yes there is an entire book. I have also been examining various shirts and their construction, experimenting with different techniques, and just recently made the pattern from sil#2's most favorite, which teaches a lot just going through that exercise. I also talk to the men in my life about what they like and don't like about the shirt they are wearing, can it be tighter here, longer there, pockets or not, and on and on. My ultimate goal . . . make THE PERFECT SHIRT. I will take all the time I need, and include all of the lessons I have learned and patience I can muster to get everything just right. NO short cuts. I would not suggest you read the following . . . I am sure it will bore you to death!
This is the shirt that I made the pattern from (a favorite of sil#2's), the shirt book that hubby got for me, the pattern that I made from sil#2's favorite shirt and compared to the one I have been using, and underneath is the gingham that I will use to make THE PERFECT SHIRT!
This is going to be the back of the shirt. I ironed it along the fabric's pattern and did the fold over before cutting. That way it will not be off grain at all in the final version. I will cut 5/8th of an inch from the fold after the piece is cut out. 
Here is the back pattern on the fabric. I folded the fabric in half and kept the fold over at the top where the seam will meet the yoke. AFTER cutting out the back of the shirt, I opened it up and cut the seam allowance. Using the gingham made it easy to cut perfectly straight across the piece. 
This is the interfacing/lining, which is an iron on woven Pellon called Shape Flex. Note it is on the bias, so as not to pull. These are the UNDER pieces, the pieces that don't show when the shirt is being worn. They will give body and shape to the shirts. Collar, cuff and collar stand can be seen under the Pellon. These pieces will all be trimmed by 1/8th inch on each end to help the piece curve the proper way in the finished shirt. When a piece has to go around the neck it makes sense that the inside piece will be shorter than the outside piece. Just like in the summer olympics when they do the shorter runs that include the curves, they line up staggered, but still run the same distance. Get it? 
The collar on the original shirt LOOKS curved, but if you follow the pattern of the fabric you see it is cut STRAIGHT across. This collar style is slightly different from the standard one I am currently using and I actually prefer this collar stand shape as it has a slight geometric aspect. The one I currently use has more curve on the ends. I was extremely careful in cutting out the collar for the new shirt. 
This is the front facing of the shirt before cutting it out. I wanted the turn under already set. I started doing this when I was working on the casual shirts with the big bold patterns that I wanted to match up. It is far easier to match up stripes and plaids doing it this way. I have learned something lately!Sewing joke for those who have stuck with it so far, as a reward for your persistence. What is a seam ripper? *See below for answer because, hey, if you have read all this you're not going to stop now.
This is the front shirt pattern on the fabric ready to cut. The turn under and finished edge are already in the proper place. Doing one, THEN setting up the other side have been the secret. On the large bold patterns, they are printed from the outside edges of the fabric, but I have found always slightly off. Hard to explain, hard to do, but it's finally in my little noodle and I can generally pull it off successfully. Just takes time. 
This picture represents hours of work measuring, ironing, precision, planning, cutting, etc. Looks pretty simple, eh? Well, looks can be deceiving. But . . . I am ready to build THE PERFECT SHIRT. . . . I think. *Jack's cousin. Lame, yes, but still . . . .
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