August 27 - Sleeve construction

Oh, what a day. The sleeve seems like it is kicking my butt even more than the body of the jacket. Is there no end to the challenges of making a "Chanel" jacket?  Basting, steaming, basting, setting, basting, stitching, the steps seem endless. YET, each step is worth the time and effort, absolutely. So worth the time and effort. 

After sewing the seams of the fabric and lining together (except for the outside seam which will be after the cuff and button holes are done) I had to figure out the interlining. It wasn't cut to the final size, which in my mind it should have been, so trimming was needed. 

This pictures shows the trim applied, the interlining basted in and all the other steps that seem to go on and on. That is about six hours of work right there. I will be sewing the button holes through the fabric AND lining rather than how the front was done, as the inside won't show. That is how it is in the instructions. Actually the inside of my hand bound button holes are pretty nice, I would show them to anyone. 

I also finished the second two pockets. 

Right now I am at over 84 hours. 

August 26 - Sleeve Basting

I basted the sleeves today. 

August 25 - Trim

I finished sewing the trim on the jacket body today and had some friends for lunch. One of my friends had a birthday and I thought this would be a nice way to celebrate. I enjoyed the day. 

August 24 - Attaching Trim and cookies.

I spent about 5 hours sewing the trim on to my jacket today. Nothing new to show. Hope to get that done tomorrow, then I am going to HAVE to face . . . . the dreaded sleeves! I think I might be scared of them, just a bit. 

I also made cookies and prepared for lunch here with some friends tomorrow. 

August 23 - Pockets and Trim Audition

10 hours of sewing today. I was able to make two pockets (two hours per!) and also finish up all the inside lining except for around the arm holes. That cannot be stitched until the sleeves are attached. That will be an interesting step, still feeling insecure, but will plunge ahead when the time comes. 

I also pick stitched just inside the inside lining to prevent the lining from ever creeping up and peeking out. I had done some pick stitching to insert a zipper. I am a pick stitch fan. 

 The smaller of the two pockets. 

 Auditioning the pockets and trim. The buttons will be replaced after a trip to my favorite fabric store in town. I just have those to get a more complete look. 

Wanting to see what it would look like when worn. Still a bit rough looking, but still has pins, basting and hasn't been pressed. 

August 20 - Sew and Press Seams

Today I actually used the sewing machine to sew the seams. The only other time I use it was for the quilting. 

August 22 - Hemming and Beginning . . . of sleeves

Now that I have finished the outside seams, the lining seams (except for the top and sleeves) and the hem, I have removed some of the basting stitches and wanted to get an idea of how it was going to look. I like it! 

Now time to get going on the sleeves. I didn't even bother to cut them out, as it was suggested that they go on last. Also they needed to be stuffed with tissue if they were to sit around a while. May as well just pop them on when they are done instead of waiting around. Still not sure when I am going to put the trim on the main body of the jacket. It is suggested that it is sewn on before the lining is attached to avoid any stitches showing through, but that is only spoken of for around the neck line. I think I can be careful all the way around the jacket, so may get a little wild and move ahead with sewing down the rest of the lining before I attach it. 

Here is what I managed to get done regarding the sleeves before the end of the day. Basically just getting set up to start thread tracing.  Stopped to watch Roman Holiday with hubby, which we realized watching it, we had never seen! At least neither of us remember the story. 

Sleeve pattern ready for thread tracing. 

August 21 - Lining seams

These I did by hand, of coarse. 

August 19 - Progress

Today was a good day in the sewing room. Got stuff done.

 Inside of buttonholes - done!

 Prepped to stitch lining. 

 Outside of right front with lining basting showing through. 

 Inside of basted jacket.

 Outside front of basted jacket.

Basted back of jacket. 

Tomorrow, I hope to steam set seams and machine sew the seams, then hand stitch the lining and steam the hem and facings. We'll see. I never am sure how much progress I will make, I have put in 42 hours so far. No wonder these jackets went for the big bucks. Of course I am a complete rookie, going VERY slowly and carefully, double checking the construction process and still making mistakes that need undoing. Most have not been that big of a problem and I am leaning a lot along the way, AND enjoying the whole experience. Plus I should have a really nice jacket when all is said and done, whenever that will be. 

August 18 - Buttonhole Progress

I continue to work on the button holes, finishing the last of them yesterday. Each hand bound button hole takes about an hour to complete. I am not sure I want to ever do a machine sewn button hole ever again! I am now ready to do the inside, which is a simple turning under of the lining and fell stitching it down. I have applied a bit of iron in stabilizer as the lining is slippery and frays.  

 Inside with the fabric flipped back.

Outside. I have basted down the front seam, but not the lining yet. 

I am coming up on 40 hours. 

August 17 - All About Buttons and Holes

I was thinking today would be a construction day, but while basting the lining to the jacket front in preparation for that, I decided I would rather make the button holes BEFORE construction the jacket. Easier to handle. I also worked out a very nice way to do this inside, taking a bit more time, but the inside of the button hole will look very nice on the lining side and nothing will peek through. I spent pretty much all day and have TWO finished button holes to show for it. 

I did stitch down the stay tape and audition buttons as well as sewing a practice button hole, plus tidied up, as I sure can make a mess on my sewing table. 

Auditioning buttons from a stash my mom left me. 

I decided on the bottom ones. 

 My practice button hole, nice. 

 Some times you have to stop and tidy up! 

 The first two button holes finished. 

What the inside will look like under the lining. 

I sewed the edges to the back of the buttonhole. 

August 16 - Quilting and UNbasting

I was able to spend most of the day in the sewing room working around some laundry and other things. Always other things to draw my attention away, but that is life, after all.

I was able to finish quilting all the pieces, as well as removing all the basting. The center front pieces are only quilted to the interlining and the small side pieces are not quilted at all, but the lining is basted to them. The only step I have left before beginning to construct the body of the jacket is to baste the lining to the center front pieces. Then I am ready to construct. I am hoping to get to that tomorrow, we'll see. There should be time. 

These are all the pieces that are ready for construction. 

The front center pieces to baste the lining to. 

August 15 - A Bit of Quilting

We ran around today and I had other things to do, but I did spend part of the evening quilting some of the pieces and taking out some of the basting pieces. I mostly focused on the back. I wanted to see what a steam pressed seam would look like and also see how the inside would go, just a little practice on a nice straight seam. Pretty pleased.

Outside.

Inside.

August 14 - More Side Front

This is the side front and there is a dart in the lining and interlining stay piece and the fashion fabric will need to be steam shrunk. I have not made a LOT of progress, but am learning a lot and still moving forward, so success on some level. I am hoping for a full weekend in the sewing room. No laundry, house cleaning, lunches, errands, shopping, meetings, work outs, deliveries, cooking or baking. Just sewing.

One reason yesterday was less about sewing. The grandkids start school next week, so . . . .

August 13 - Sides Started

This month hasn't turned out quite like I had dreamed of in my head, but I am making progress. Yesterday was taking a friend to yoga in the morning and lunch with neighbors in the afternoon. I came home and left the disasters around me and went into the sewing room for a few hours, even neglecting hubby for a while, he had to fix his own dinner, poor guy. 

I am still getting the order and details of construction set in my mind and sorting out materials. If you noticed the fabric AND the lining are not what are on the original "plan" but this is my learning garment, after all. I made some changes. But am happy with them.

These are the two under arm side pieces (on the lower part of the  picture) and the front side that is in the process of thread tracing the sewing lines. Once I remove the pattern piece I will baste the lining to the fabric and then will double baste the quilting lines. I only have the other side front to mark and baste and then it will be time to do the quilting. I hope to stop tomorrow and get some cotton or silk thread to begin that process.  

August 12 - Back of Jacket

The learning curve for this jacket has been steep. There are some details I just was NOT getting as far as construction. I basted too much of the interfacing to the jacket front, so there was some un-doing that was going on. I watched the DVD for the fourth time with the book open and think I finally have all the details. While I had the larger book out, I took notes in the margins and saw where I got confused. Partly the way I see things, a bit different than the way the book presents things, so it took me a while. I think I have it now. The back right of the jacket is below. I actually did that progression correctly. Just the one piece took me nearly three hours to do and it is just prep work, basting, and thread marking! And I loved every minute. Especially now that I am not so confused.   

The picture above is of the outside, right back piece of the jacket. The picture below is the lining side. The thread markings don't show, just the basting and quilting lines. 

August 11 - A no sew day

Today was errands and commitments and meetings. Ugh. Glad every day is not like today. 

August 10 - Sabbath

As much as I love to sew, I absolutely love my family more, so spending time with them is the best. A great dinner by hubby and game time with the girls and their guys, doesn't get much better. Only if the WHOLE crowd was here. 

Yes, this is fuzzy, but faces were being made in all the others. 

Are we grown up yet?  Hmmm, don't think so. 

Check out the adorable melon basket! Oh, and that cute couple in the "background"! 

August 9 - Fabric, Marking and Stays

This morning, I gathered all the fabric, interfacing, lining and facing for the front piece of the jacket along with some twill/stay tape. The interfacing and interlining are from pieces my mom gave me. The fabric was originally intended for pants for my youngest. She has moved to more of a knit based wardrobe (smart girl, as she doesn't like to iron!) and the fabric has sat for several years. I am OVER fabric sitting, must be used!!  

So here are the fabrics laid out, after pressing with a lovely press cloth supplied by mom, as well. It took about an hour and a half to gather, decide and press the fabrics as well as cut out the interfacing pieces. While I was doing this I listened to the DVD lesson on making the jacket again. 

Here are the interfacings for cuffs, collar and hem line 

along with the bust stay. 

Here is the full marked and basted front, but not cut out yet. I will quilt later, as she recommends silk thread and I do not have any.The square is a label to help me keep track of which piece is which. Also to help keep track of the front and back side of the fabric. Don't want to get that confused. 

This is the inside of the front right jacket, with the buttonholes, so they are marked. This is the only section of the jacket that is quilted only to the interfacing. I guess so that the inside lining is smoother on the front section where it might show. This part took 2 hours. I sure hope I get faster at this!

The front stay and button hole interfacing to keep the fabric from fraying when it is cut. This was a back step, as I had not paid enough attention to the instructions (so much information) and attached too much of the interlining to the jacket front. The front has interlining which is quilted to the jacket front and lining which is NOT. I watched the video again, and had an "ahhhhh" moment. Then I have a few moments of UNdoing before proceeding. All in the process. 

Yes, this is taking a while, but I am enjoying it!

August 8 - Toile and Pattern

Today, after errands and house cleaning, I headed into the sewing room for a few hours. Five and a half to be exact. Today was all about the fit and pattern preparation. I cut out the pieces and didn't bother to do any of the markings, this was just for fit. Nice that the measurements on the pattern and the fit turned out really accurate. Go Vogue Patterns. I  might be able to go down one size, but I do NOT like my clothing tight at all, so I think this is going to be perfect.  Here are the pieces laid out on the floor. I am missing the piece that runs down the side between the front and back jacket pieces.  

The toile, or muslin. 

Looks like it is going to fit nicely. Often, since I am short waisted, I have to shorten the bodice, but I like where this hits me, so will leave as is.

The next step was to transfer the pattern pieces on to pellon and transfer all markings. Now I will be able to use it over and over. 

I really like this "Chanel" style jacket. I hope it turns out the way I am dreaming it will. I want to eventually make a dress/skirt with the same fabric and I will eventually have a "Chanel" type suit.  Excellent!

August 7 - Gather together

Today was cleaning, shopping, working, errands, phone calls and cooking. The only sewing progress was gathering for the BIG Chanel Jacket project. I don't have the inner lining material that is recommended, but think I have something very suitable for my practice project. Tomorrow . . . the muslin for fit and hopefully I will be able to start cutting out the jacket. I am excited. 

August 6 - Every day knit dress

These are my "go to" be at home dresses for sewing or weekend outfits. This one is a nice soft denim colored knit.  I also have one I do housework in, you can tell. Slip on, comfy, easy care. Love 'em. I made this one long. 

August 5 - Finish a skirt

I spent a bit more time on this skirt than I generally do on my every day clothes. I did some extra steps to get the seams, facing, zipper and hem just right. This is my second type of "go to" skirts. One is with knits with an elastic waist and eight gores, this one is with wovens and hangs from the hip and is six gore. A simple dark denim. I practically live in my two styles of skirts. 

I faced the hem with black bias tape, the type that you get in the packages, I didn't make this one like I did for my apron. My last denim skirt's hem wore quicker and didn't hang the way I would have liked, hoping this will last and look nicer. Used my sewing machine, serger and cover lock for this one.